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Pet Health
Cat Diet
A properly balanced diet includes protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals and water. Choose food that is appropriate for your cat's age, to ensure nutritional balance. Dry food is less expensive than other kinds, and gives you the most variety for feeding your cat. Canned food is more expensive and with that on mind we can safely say that cats generally like wet food only when it first comes out of the can, very moist and fresh. As the food stays in the bowl longer than a few hours, most cats will not eat it at all.. On the other hand dry rations can typically be left out for your cat to eat whenever he or she is hungry. In conclusion a basic diet of dry food, with some rations of canned food from time to time, is recommended for nutrition and cost efficiency.
Playing or Attacking?
 Cats are predators. They are not farmers. It is in their instinct to hunt down and kill. Even though you provide a gourmet diet for kitty, he still needs to practice his hunting skills whether you like it or not. Predatory behavior is often characterized by long periods of lying in wait and stalking followed by an explosion of activity - the attack. It's common for a cat to creep up to a sleeping owner and playfully attack them in bed. Some cats sit quietly, staring at a wiggling toe, then with lightening speed, they pounce and attack. Other cats lie in wait under furniture until a foot passes by, then their claw reaches out and grabs. Cat play is an extension of their predatory nature. It provides the cat with the opportunity to develop and sharpen its hunting skills, even if it never needs to go out and catch its own dinner. For that reason is important that your cat develop his hunting skills through toys.
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Cleanliness & Grooming
 Regular grooming is a good routine to establish with your cat. Not only will frequent brushing keep your cat clean and free from snarls; it will also do a great deal to keep your cat's skin and coat healthy and free from problems and diminish the shedding problem. Grooming can also reveal abnormalities. Grooming usually entails brushing and combing, and on a less frequent basis, nail clipping , bathing and trimming.
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Litter Box Training
 Cats learn to use litter by watching other cats. If you don't have any other cats make sure to show your cat where the litter box is. There is a good chance that your kitten will know how to use the litter box without training. some other cats will need a constant reminder of where is the litter box and what is is used for. Take some time to take your kitten to the litter box often. Find an area that is not too secluded but away from traffic flow. Newspaper or any used carpet square can be put down over the flooring. Types of litter vary and you may want to experiment. The clay type litters are dusty, have to be "dumped" daily, but are less expensive. The scoopable litters are preferred by many cat owners since they only have to scoop the obvious portions as needed. All of the scoopable litters are not of the same quality, so you may have to try a few brands or ask a friend who has a cat. It is best not to touch the waste with your hands to help prevent the spread of disease specially if you are expecting. The secret to litter box training is to keep the litter waste free. As soon as you notice waste in the box clean it out, since kittens like people prefer clean "bathrooms".
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Cats and Illness
 Due to the cats nature, many people still do not bring their cats to the veterinarian. Cats generally live longer than dogs and need the same preventive health care as dogs. One of the first purchases one should make regarding cats is a good quality cat carrier. These carriers are very valuable when bringing cats and kittens to the veterinarian since cats can become frightened easily. The carriers also can be used to transport pets on airplanes and double as sleeping quarters at home. When using a carrier it is important that the cat become accustomed to the carrier over a period of time.
Signs of illness in cats are usually subtle, so you have to be a bit of a detective. Make observing your cat a part of your everyday routine. Keep track of his or her general appearance -- weight, nose, eyes, ears, mouth, breathing, abdomen and hydration. You should not only be aware of your cat's body, but also of his or her personality. Behavioral changes can indicate illness, such as changes in eating or drinking habits, litter box use, grooming routines, or the sound of his or her voice. When concerned or simply in doubt, take your cat to the veterinarian.
Vaccinations and health checks needed include:
Feline distemper Given at 9 weeks old and 12 weeks old, repeat annually
Respiratory virus complex Combined with the distemper vaccine, repeat annually.
Feline leukemia virus Begin at 9 weeks old, repeat in 2-4 weeks then annually.
Feline leukemia / FIV testing Test no earlier than 9 weeks, preferably 12 weeks of age.
Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) Begin at 4 months old, repeat in 2-4 weeks, then annually
Rabies 3 months of age, repeat annually
Intestinal worm checks 9 weeks old, 16 weeks, then twice yearly.
Neutering or hysterectomy (5-6 months of age).
Annual booster vaccinations Given along with an intestinal worm check twice yearly.
Feline Distemper
Feline distemper is caused by a virus that is primarily breathed in by the kitten. This virus, affecting the intestinal tract and blood cells, will also cause runny nose and eyes. Fortunately due to vaccinations, this disease is not as prevalent as it was years ago. Kittens with distemper can be treated by a veterinarian but many of them will die due to overwhelming infection.
Respiratory Virus Complex
The three respiratory viruses that can also be inhaled by kittens cause varied symptoms from sneezing, runny eyes and nose, ulcers in the mouth, and pneumonia. Chlamydia, Rhinotracheitis, and Calici virus protection are all in the combination vaccine.
Herpes Virus
Herpes virus is common in cats and kittens but a vaccine is not available. Sneezing and eye discharge are the most common symptom.
Feline Leukemia
Feline leukemia is the most common viral disease in cats. The virus is contracted either through the uterus in unborn kittens, grooming, the bite of another cat, or contact from saliva and urine from an infected cat. The symptoms of this disease vary greatly from fever to forms of cancer. It is difficult to diagnose leukemia on the symptoms alone. Blood tests are valuable as an aid in diagnosing the disease but sometimes the virus can hide in the bone marrow of an infected cat for years with a negative leukemia test. Testing before vaccination is recommended. Cats with leukemia will have lowered immune systems and can remain carriers for life. Positive cats are susceptible to other infections due to a depressed immune system.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
FIV attacks the cats body much like HIV (AIDS) does in humans. The symptoms vary depending on the cat but the immune system is always lowered. Positive cats never get rid of the virus and are susceptible to other conditions due to a depressed immune system. The virus is spread through the bite of another cat. Fortunately the incidence of FIV is not high for indoor cats.
Feline Infectious Peritonitis
FIP is a very serious disease that is almost always fatal. The virus that causes FIP is difficult to test for and the symptoms in cats are so varied the diagnoses is mostly an educated guess. Vaccinations to cats is controversial as many veterinarians feel there is not enough infection in the cat population to warrant the vaccination. This disease has a tendency to affect cats under 2 years of age and cats over 9 years of age.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms are a common intestinal parasite of dogs and cats. The most common tapeworm is transmitted by fleas. Cats eat infected fleas and the tapeworm attaches to the intestine. Over time worms grow up to 12 inches in length and shed portions of its body called prolottids through the feces. The small pieces of tapeworm actually move and appear much like a grain of rice. These small portions of worms are actually egg packets that are later eaten by fleas which continues the life cycle. Research has shown that cats groom up to 75% of the fleas off their body in 24 hours. It is entirely possible that many cat owners are not aware their cat has any fleas and may not be fortunate to even see the tapeworm segments. Symptoms of tapeworms can be vomiting, diarrhea, unkempt hair-coat, and itching around the rectal area.
Fleas
To control fleas you must understand them. We prefer not to use chemicals such as those found in feed stores, which have the possibility of causing harmful reactions to the pet or the environment. A few statements will be made about fleas and flea control, which will hopefully help you understand how to control these parasites.
Fleas are blood-sucking parasites, which spend 95% of their adult life on your pet. As many as 2000 eggs can be laid by the adult female flea within a few weeks. Eggs are laid on the pet, and then they fall off into the carpet, grass, or similar areas that are frequented by your pet. Fleas generally do not live for more than a few months, and cannot live long without a blood meal. The adult flea comprises only 5% of the entire flea life cycle. Since the adult is the only one we see, imagine how many immature stages are in our house or yards that comprise the other 95%. Eighty five per cent of the immature stages are eggs and larvae. The other 10% is composed of the pupae, which is much like a cocoon and is resistant to insecticides.
The must common mistake people will do is to concentrate on what they see, which is natural of course, but controlling only 5% of the total flea population will never get us anywhere. The solution to flea control is to concentrate on the eggs and larval stages before they develop the cocoon or pupae. The eggs and larvae need the correct amount of humidity, sunlight, and food source to survive. These facts help us to decide where these flea stages may hide. For instance, outside flea eggs and larvae can be found in the shaded, cooler areas. Examples are under tree limbs, bushes, dog pens, under decks, etc. These immature stages generally cannot complete their development out in the sunny areas of your yard, so there is not point in using flea products in the middle of the sunny yard.
In the house, flea larvae and pupae will be deep in your carpet or just under the edge of furniture, not more than a few inches out of the light. Concentrating on flea control in carpeted areas is the most productive for indoor control. Also it is very important to use flea products on rugs or door mats (indoor and outdoor) where flea eggs may be deposited as the pets sits or stands on the rug.
If you see or feel fleas on you, they are usually the pre-emerging fleas which are the ones coming out of the pupae. Immature fleas can stay in the pupae stage for months until all the right conditions enable them to break out of their cocoon. Young fleas can be hopping and sucking blood within minutes after hatching out of the pupae stage. Remember that fleas live most of their life on our pets, they prefer pets over us, and so if we find fleas on us, we can believe that we really have problems with immature fleas, eggs, larvae, and pupae. Just killing the adult flea will not solve the problem.
It is also important to remember that not seeing fleas on your pet does not rule them out. We know that cats can groom as many as 75% of the fleas off their body in one day. Sometimes you can see flea dirt, which looks like small curled black specks. This flea dirt is actually flea waste material and is composed primarily of dried blood. When pets are washed they can actually have so much "flea dirt" on them that it may seem as if the pet is bleeding due to the dissolving dried blood.
Products that control fleas are many and varied. Most contact kill products contain pyrethrins or permethrin chemicals. These chemicals are commonly found in pet flea shampoos, mousse products, some dips, and many flea sprays. The best way to control fleas is to use an IGR or insect growth regulator. These products not only kill the adult flea but also prevent the development of eggs into larvae and finally into pupae. Veterinarians are very knowledgeable about fleas and they should be consulted with questions concerning the effectiveness and safety of all flea products.
Ticks
Ticks can be found almost anywhere, but primarily in grass, woods, or bushy areas. You generally do not see the tick when they crawl onto you or your pet but soon the tick has imbedded its mouthparts into your skin and becomes firmly attached until it is removed.
Ticks commonly affect dogs, cats, and humans. Since dogs frequent the areas tick live, they are the most affected. Ticks attach themselves to the skin in pursuit of a blood meal. Late spring, summer, and early fall are the times of the year were most tick infestations appear. Some ticks can live up to two years, survive temperatures below freezing and lay up to 5,000 eggs.
Ticks are important not only to dogs and cats but to humans as well, for ticks can transmit diseases that can be harmful or even fatal to pets and humans. The most common tick transmitted diseases are Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Canine Ehrlichiosis, Ehrlichiosis in Humans, and Human Granulocytic Ehrlichosis. By far the most common condition seen is Tick Paralysis. Some dogs are especially sensitive to a toxin (poison) found in the saliva of the tick. This toxin paralyzes the nervous system to the point that the dog can no longer walk. Most cases are treatable and recovery is usually uneventful. However, in some cases the dogs become over heated due to their inability to get out of the sun, or can be injured if near the road. Deaths have been seen as an indirect cause from Tick Paralysis.
Since humans can also get diseases from ticks it is best not to remove the tick with you bare fingers. The use of tweezers or special inexpensive tick removal devices is the best way to remove ticks. Removing ticks incompletely may allow portions of the mouth parts or head of the tick to remain attached to the skin. Infections and scar tissue that may never go away can be the result of ineffective tick removal.
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